Dear readers,
welcome to the latest edition of the STFI Newsletter.
Textile circular economy has been close to our hearts at STFI from the very beginning. Not only have we been inviting experts to the “recycling for textiles” colloquium in Chemnitz for the biennial industry discourse for over 30 years, but we also set the course for an optimally functioning circular economy in our research work together with our partners. Our current efforts are driven by the urgently needed search for new applications and products for recycled materials, the planning of regional concepts and the optimisation of recycling processes. Last but not least, we have created excellent conditions for innovation with the recently inaugurated wetlaid line and a carding opener at the Center for Textile Sustainability. Let us fascinate you – enjoy reading!
Your STFI
Textile circular economy
– Achieving the goal together –
The circular economy is everywhere these days. Looking at the content of conferences, meetings or trade journals, it is easy to get the impression that we are well on the way to creating one. In reality, recycling rates are stagnating or even falling, and traditional companies at all stages of the textile chain are filing for bankruptcy.
Of course, the circular economy is much more than recycling. The other R-strategies are now well known, even if they are often applied more in theory than in practice. Nevertheless, the various recycling technologies are fundamental because they offer solutions for the huge quantities of textile materials at the end of their (hopefully long) use phase. In addition to research into different fibre materials and mechanical and chemical recycling technologies, regional characteristics and circular economy concepts for these regions are playing an increasing role in STFI's research.
Politicians are also called upon to set clear guidelines and provide the security that such a transformation requires. In Europe, and especially in Germany, we have a long tradition of collecting, sorting and recycling textile waste. Determined action is needed to ensure that this can continue and even be expanded in the future. Together. Now.
Focus on circulation potential
The PESCO-UP project aims to find innovative solutions for the recycling of textile production and post-consumer waste in order to recycle PES/CO blends to be reused the textile production cycle. It supports the circular economy along the entire textile recycling value chain and contributes to resource conservation and sustainability in the textile industry.
In addition to the technical feasibility of new recycling processes, the project approach also examines regulatory and socio-economic barriers in order to increase the market acceptance of recycled materials and innovative technologies. Every year approx. 7.5 million tons of textile waste are generated in Europe, but only around 30-35 % of the waste produced is collected separately and less than 1 % of it is recycled. Most textiles are cotton and polyester or their blends. Significant quantities of PES/CO blends are disposed of each year because recycling is technically difficult and/or economically unviable.
The aim of PESCO-UP is the development of a sustainable, economically and technologically viable process in order to transform waste from PES/CO blends into high-quality and pure materials for the subsequent use cycle in order to conserve resources. The holistic approach of the PESCO-UP project includes innovative processes such as digitised material identification, data exchange and efficient sorting. By developing practicable chemical and mechanical separation processes, the project aims to achieve an efficiency of up to 90 % in material processing. The project focuses not only on technological advancements, but also on transforming the aforementioned challenges into new business models. This is supported by strengthening the potential workforce through targeted qualification strategies and training materials.
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A second fibre life as acoustic nonwovens
The chemical recycling of mixed textile fractions produces textile residues that are currently not used as materials, but are instead thermally recycled or disposed of. In the INNO-KOM project 'Recoustics', the company ReFresh Global, Berlin, and STFI are pursuing the goal of reusing textile residues from chemical recycling by the end of 2026 using efficient treatment and processing methods. The project is investigating the extent to which these valuable resources can at least be reused to replace primary resources.
Sound-absorbing design products, such as acoustic walls or furniture, have been identified as a target market. Advantages in the development of acoustic nonwovens are the excellent suitability of nonwoven forming processes for processing textile waste materials after they have been processed, and the fact that they can be used as sound-absorbing components under a visually appealing top layer if required.
The STFI is responsible for the procurement of textile waste, mechanical processing and the formation, bonding and finishing of nonwovens. The necessary preparation and processing technologies are available at STFI in a pilot plant up to semi-industrial scale. Industrial partners in the project are responsible for converting the finished nonwovens into sound-absorbing design products.
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MC4 – Closing the Loop
High-performance carbon and glass fibre materials have a significant environmental footprint, and not just because of their energy-intensive production. Currently, up to 40% of the material is not recycled in the manufacturing process and 98% of composite components end up in incineration or landfill after 15 to 30 years of use. Worldwide, 110,000 tonnes of carbon fibre and 4.5 million tonnes of glass fibre are consumed each year. In addition, Europe's competitiveness needs to be strengthened as 80% of new carbon and glass fibres have to be produced and imported outside Europe.
MC4 (Multi-level Circular Process Chain for Carbon and Glass Fibre Composites) is a European project to promote circular approaches for carbon and glass fibre composites. These materials are indispensable in many technical applications due to their light weight and high mechanical properties. However, European carbon and glass fibre value chains need to become more ecologically and economically efficient.
At the beginning of October 2024, the MC4 consortium met for the bi-annual project meeting at partner CHOMARAT in Le Cheylard (France). Demonstrators were used to illustrate the technical implementation of the latest project results on carbon and glass fibre recycling. A workshop was also held to develop and discuss implementation plans. For four selected key outcomes of the MC4 project, a strategy will be developed by March 2025 on how these will be put into practice by the partners after the end of the project and beyond, and what marketing activities will be required to achieve this. The meeting was rounded off with a factory tour of the host company CHOMARAT, a leading French manufacturer of textile reinforcements for composites and the construction industry, as well as coatings and films.
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Wetlaid line inaugurated
On 17 September 2024, the STFI's new wetlaid line was inaugurated at the Center for Textile Sustainability. Over forty invited guests from industry, research and politics attended the opening of the technical centre. With the construction of the new Center for Textile Sustainability and the installation of the wetlaid line, the Chemnitz-based institute has expanded its expertise in the areas of nonwoven development, textile recycling and testing. The wetlaid nonwoven line now enables the STFI to process short fibres for specific applications. At the same time, all available nonwoven formation technologies are now installed at STFI for the first time.
The highlight of the opening ceremony, after a short overview presentation, was a tour of the wet laid nonwoven line in operation. With a working width of 600 mm and a line speed of up to 10 m/min, single-layer wetlaid nonwovens can be produced. Short fibres with fibre lengths of up to 25 mm and fibre dusts are processed in wet laid nonwoven production. Almost all fibre types and materials in various lengths, thicknesses or preparation states as well as material blends and recycled fibres can be processed into wet laid nonwovens. The dispersing behaviour of the fibres and the fibre length, among other things, are decisive for the product. In the first process step, fibres are dispersed in water to form a suspension. Subsequently, the headbox is used to form the web on an inclined screen belt. Bonding is achieved thermally by adding binding fibres or by applying an additional binding agent. Finally, the web is dried and wound.
We would like to thank everyone who made this day an extraordinary experience. We would particularly like to thank the Sächsische Aufbaubank - Förderbank for the funding and our partner Pill Nassvliestechnik for their support with the installation of the wetlaid system.
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Training
18 - 19 March 2025
Seminar Nonwovens
8 - 9 April 2025
Seminar Personal Protective Equipment
Conferences
11 - 12 March 2025
17th Symposium TEXTILE FILTER
3 - 4 December 2025
17th Colloquium „recycling for textiles“
Fairs
4 - 6 March 2025
JEC World in Paris
Research
Regional recycling of smart products
TRICYCLE is a project of the interdisciplinary innovation project SmartERZ from the Erzgebirge, which was funded by the Federal Ministry of Education and Research (BMBF) in the programme "WIR! - Change through Innovation in the Region' programme. SmartERZ is a cross-industry technology alliance for the development of functionally integrated fibre composites.
The project developed a technological recycling concept for future smart products and the waste generated during their production in the region. The aim was to develop standardised, scalable processes with the highest possible degree of automation in compliance with applicable laws, regulations and standards. Embedded in the existing structures of the SmartERZ region and beyond, the concept was developed for a centre that would act as a sort of hub for regional waste in this area. At the centre, waste streams can be collected, pre-treated and prepared for raw material recycling. Initial treatment includes quality control/quality management, shredding, pelletising and compaction technologies. The centre is designed to make even the smallest quantities available for economically attractive recycling and reuse.
In addition to material networking, the concept for the recycling center also includes the prerequisites for acting as a networking centre for all aspects of the (textile) circular economy. Companies, research, education and public institutions can and should enter into a dialogue in order to find the best possible recycling options for the respective waste, but also to promote the avoidance and reuse of waste, the creation of durable products and the exchange of knowledge.
Technology
Twin Carding Opener adds to system
The recycling pilot plant stations at the Center for Textile Sustainability has been expanded and now include a Twin Carding Opener (TCO/1500) from Dell'Orco & Villani, Capalle (Italy). The carding opener is available for gentle opening of textile surfaces. Thanks to the gentle opening via two main rollers and eight working rollers, the fibres are subjected to as little stress as possible during the fine opening process. With a working width of 1500 mm, the system can be operated with a material throughput of up to 500 kg per hour. The carding opener also has a spray application system.
The TCO/1500 is a technological complement to the existing Servo-60 ripper. This combination of card opener and tearing machine with clamping point is unique in the research landscape. In the future, it will be possible to optimise the mechanical opening of different textile surfaces, from direct processing of open structures and nonwovens on the TCO/1500 to the combination of Servo-60 and TCO/1500 for high-strength fabrics. After characterisation and classification, the recyclates produced in this way can find their way into new products via the various web forming and bonding processes and the spinning mill. Analysis of the relationships between input quality, optimum processing parameters and output quality is of key importance.
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Research
WIRreFa – Making products from recycled fibres
The development of semi-finished textile products made from recycled carbon fibres (rCF) has made enormous progress in recent years. It is now possible to produce highly orientated semi-finished products from rCF with composite properties that come close to those of primary materials. So why not use recycled materials for textile reinforcement structures? As part of the BMBF funding programme ‘WIR! Change in the region through innovation’, a consortium of four Saxon research institutions and five SMEs is researching potential fields of application in which the substitution of primary fibres with recycled materials is possible.
The project is focussing on both the construction sector in the form of building reinforcements and the interdisciplinary field of composite materials. The aim is to develop the use of recyclates in the material cycle and to demonstrate the potential using selected examples. The focus of value creation is on the ‘Elbe Valley Saxony’ region. STFI researchers are involved in the development of kema-filament card slivers and semi-finished random fibre products in various configurations, which consist of regionally collected rCF. The nonwovens produced form the semi-finished product for further processing into composite materials.
An essential component of the research activities is the identification of the characteristics of composite semi-finished products and components made from them. This will be followed by a Life Cycle Assessment (LCA), which will collect, provide and process data on material flows, resource consumption and the processes involved in the preparation and production of semi-finished products. In the field of RCF recycling, the project is a central component of seven sub-projects of the "WIR! recycle fibres!
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Sächsisches Textilforschungsinstitut e.V. (STFI)
Affiliated institute of the University of Technology Chemnitz
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Sächsisches Textilforschungsinstitut e.V. (STFI)
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09072 Chemnitz
Germany
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Sächsisches Textilforschungsinstitut e.V. (STFI)
Annaberger Str. 240
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Germany
Phone: +49 371 5274-0
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Email: stfi@stfi.de
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Head of Board of Directors: Dipl.-Ing.-Ök. Andreas Berthel
Managing Director: Dr. Heike Illing-Günther
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Textilforschungsinstitut e.V. registered at European Union
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